TECH TIP FOR JANUARY, 1994

ONE OF THE LARGEST PROBLEM CAUSING AREAS IN THE MODERN AUTOMOBILE IS "CABLES AND ENDS".THEY SEEM SO SIMPLE THAT NO ONE PAYS MUCH ATTENTION TO HOW AND WHAT.
WHEN REINSTALLING BATTERY CABLES AFTER CHANGING OR SERVICING A BATTERY, THERE ARE SEVERAL THINGS THAT SHOULD BE LOOKED AT,BEFORE SAYING THE JOB HAS BEEN DONE PROPERLY.

1) ALL SURFACES MUST BE CLEAN AND BRIGHT; AND ALL CONNECTIONS MUST BE TIGHT. USE THE PROPER TOOLS, IN GOOD WORKING CONDITION, TO ACHIEVE THIS. REMEMBER WITH ALL ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS IN A CAR THE RULE IS: Clean, Bright, and Tight.

2) IF THE ENDS OF THE BATTERY CLAMP TOUCH, WHEN THE BOLT IS  TIGHTENED, EVEN IF YOU CAN'T MOVE IT BY HAND, THE CONNECTION IS PROBABLY NOT TIGHT ENOUGH. MORE WRENCH POWER WILL CRUSH THE CLAMP AND POSSIBLY BREAK IT, BUT WILL NOT MAKE IT ANY TIGHTER.REMOVE THE CABLE END, AND TAKE OUT THE BOLT. HOLDING THE CABLE END IN A PAIR OF VICE GRIPS (SAWS CUT HANDS TOO!), USE A HACK SAW TO REMOVE SOME OF THE MATERIAL FROM BETWEEN THE ENDS OF THE CLAMP, AND REINSTALL. WHEN CLAMPED AROUND THE POST, AND FULLY TIGHTENED, SOME OF THE ATTACHING BOLT SHOULD BE VISIBLE BETWEEN THE ENDS OF THE CLAMP.

3) THE REPLACEMENT CABLE ENDS, WHICH CLAMP AROUND THE CABLE AND    ARE HELD IN PLACE WITH TWO NUTS AND BOLTS, ARE CALLED "TEMPORARY" REPLACEMENT ENDS, AND FOR A GOOD REASON. THEY IMMEDIATELY INTRODUCE A VOLTAGE DROP INTO THE SYSTEM, THE  EXTENT OF WHICH DEPENDS ON THE SKILL, ATTENTION TO DETAIL, TIME ALLOTTED, AND DESIRE, OF THE TECHNICIAN WHO DOES THE JOB.IN ADDITION, THESE THINGS ARE USUALLY MADE TO BE SOLD "FOR A PRICE", WHICH MEANS THEY ARE ALSO MADE OF THE LEAST EXPENSIVE MATERIALS AVAILABLE, WITH LITTLE IF ANY REGARD TO ITS SUITABILITY. LASTLY, THEY PROVIDE A MULTITUDE SPACES FOR CORROSION TO START, AS RESULT OF BATTERY GASSING AND AIR BORNE CONTAMINANTS. DO YOUR CUSTOMER AND YOURSELF A FAVOUR IF THE CABLE END NEEDS REPLACING, REPLACE THE CABLE.  NEVER, NEVER EVER, HAMMER OR EVEN TAP A CABLE END OVER THE    BATTERY POST. THEY MAKE SPECIFIC TOOLS FOR SPREADING THE CLAMPS.   IF YOU CAN'T PUT THE CLAMP OVER THE POST USING YOUR THUMB AND INDEX FINGER, GET A SPREADER!!

5) BEFORE INSTALLING THE CLAMP OVER THE POST, COVER THE POST WITH  A COATING OF THE SAME HIGH TEMP SILICONE GREASE YOU USE ON    SPARK PLUG BOOTS. THE GREASE WON'T MELT OR BURN, AND FILLS IN  ALL THE LITTLE NOOKS AND CRANNIES BETWEEN THE CLAMP AND THE POST, PREVENTING WATER AND ACID FROM ENTERING AND ATTACKING THE CONNECTION. MY INFORMATION IS THAT THIS STUFF LASTS ALMOST   INDEFINITELY.

6) MAKE SURE THE BATTERY IS HELD SOLIDLY IN PLACE IN THE HOLDER. A LOOSE BATTERY IS THE QUICKEST WAY TO MAKE A GOOD BATTERY JUNK, EXCEPT FOR MAYBE A LOOSE BATTERY HELD IN PLACE WITH A BUNGEE STRAP.SO, NOW WE HAVE OUR BATTERY HELD SOLIDLY IN PLACE, WITH CLEAN &/OR NEW CABLE ENDS, FASTENED TIGHTLY AROUND THE POSTS. IS THERE A WAY TO DETERMINE IF THE CONNECTION BETWEEN THE CLAMP AND POST IS A GOOD ONE?
YES, THERE IS.FIRST DISABLE THE IGNITION, AND THEN USING YOUR ACCURATE "DIGITAL" VOLTMETER, SET TO THE LOWEST VOLTAGE SCALE,CONNECT ONE PROBE TO THE BATTERY POST AND THE OTHER TO THE CLAMP.HAVE SOMEONE ELSE CRANK THE ENGINE FOR ABOUT 10 SEC, WHILE YOUWATCH THE METER.
IF YOU GET A READING OF MORE THAN 0.10 MLV, THE CONNECTION IS NOT GOOD AND SHOULD BE REDONE. REPEAT THIS ON THE OTHER POST, DON'T WORRY IN THE VOLTMETER CABLES ARE REVERSED, BECAUSE THE READING WILL STILL BE RIGHT BUT MAY SHOW THE SIGN IN FRONT OF IT.THERE ARE HOST OF PROBLEMS WHICH CAN BE AVOIDED BY FOLLOWING THE ABOVE STEPS, AND DON'T BE AFRAID OF CHARGING THE CUSTOMER FOR THE EXTRA WORK AND PARTS INVOLVED. AFTER ALL THEY BROUGHT THE CAR TO YOU, TO BE PROPERLY SERVICED, IN THE FIRST PLACE; DIDN'T THEY?